始めましょう!
Engaku-ji 円覚寺
I last went to Engaku-ji in June, though the weather was basically the same as today. The temple was quieter today, but I wasn't there for as long. I picked up a leaflet this time around which has a pretty good map of the temple grounds and all the building names. The tickets also change design depending on the month and flower season.
Anyway, here's some info about the temple.
- Founded in 1282 - the 5th year of the Koan Era - by Mugaku Sogen
- Patron - Hojo Tokimune of the Kamakura Shogunate
- Built to honour the war-dead of both Japan and Mongolia
- The temple has endured several major fires and periods of decline
- The present form of the temple was consolidates by Priest Seisetsu at the end of the Edo Era
- The Meiji Era saw many unsui 雲水 (zen novices) train and practice zen at the temple
This time, I went to the Kaiki Byou 開基廟 (Kaiki Mausoleum) as well. It costs 100円 to get in, and for an extra 500円 you can enjoy a cup of hot or iced green tea. It's a very peaceful part of the temple, and I enjoyed a few moments of quiet there.
The mausoleum enshrines three high-ranking people. One of these people is Tokimune, who died two years prior to the completion of the temple. Tokimune helped to stabilise the feudal government and overcame many difficulties in war. As such, he is still worshipped as a god of study and fortune by some.
Meigetsu-in 明月院
My next stop was Meigestu-in, a Rinzai temple, which is only a short walk up the road from Engaku-ji. The walk itself is very pleasant, and you can get a real feel for Kita-Kamakura. I'd be very happy if I ever got the chance to leave there.
The temple itself is up a narrow road that runs along a stream, and is really quite charming. At the entrance Meigetsu-in looks very small, but I was pleasantly surprised at the size of it. Here's some information on the temple, according to the leaflet.
- Founded in 1160 as Meigetsu-an, meaning "Bright Moon Hermitage", by Yamanouchi Tsunetoshi
- The site was selected for the construction of a Buddhist temple in 1256 by Hojo Tokiyori
- The main image of worship is Kannon Bodhisattva, the deity of compassion
- The temple is part of the Kenchoji School of the Rinzai Zen Sect
The temple is full of trees and flowers, as well as bamboo, so it is very quiet and feels very enclosed. There are lots of small paths, so you can easily spend an hour or so wandering around. The main temple buildings are at the back of the grounds, which are accessed by steps (there is also a road for those who cannot use the stairs). At the main buildings, there is a Japanese rock garden. It's the first one I've seen since I've been here, and it was rather nice. However, a squirrel had run across it so there was a trail of little footprints.
There's also a small tea house in the temple grounds. I decided to pop in for a while before heading on to the next temple. The staff were very sweet, and one girl kindly translated the menu for me. I ordered the 'Green Tea & Sweet Set', which came in some very beautiful dishes. It cost me 700円, which I thought was maybe a little expensive, but I didn't mind too much.
It was all really rather delicious. The sweet was made of shortbread, red bean jam and a layer of mochi. There were very few other people in the temple, and I was the only one in the tea house, so I had a good twenty minutes or so enjoying the view before collecting my umbrella and heading across the train tracks to Jochi-ji Temple.
Jochi-ji 浄智寺
I don't have a vast amount to say about this one, really. Kinpozan Jochi-ji is another Rinzai Zen temple, but is really rather small. If anything, the most impressive part is the walk up to the entrance. After that, it's rather uneventful compared to the other temples in the area.
Kencho-ji 建長寺
Kencho-ji was my final stop for the day. From the map I had, it looked like it was a fair size and had a good number halls to look at, and indeed it does. In face, it's huge. It's a little over 1km from Kita-Kamakura Station I think, but it's an easy walk - just follow the road and you really can't miss it. There's a huge pillar with it's name on it and a massive gate.
As with all the temples here, there's a small entry fee of 300円, but that's easy enough to run to. Kencho-ji is very impressive, and it was pretty busy today because there was a service on (which I was fortunate enough to be able to watch), but it's easy to get away from the crowds due to the sheer size of the temple grounds.
There are currently 10 main buildings and around 10 subtemples. The main buildings are as follows:
- Somon - General Gate
- Sanmon - Main Gate, built in 1754. It is also called "Tanuki Mon", meaning Badger's Gate
- Bonsho - Temple Bell, cast in 1255 and is now designated as a National Treasure
- Junipers - Whilst not a building, they are counted as such in the guide and are National Treasures, as each is over 750 years old and were planted by the Founder
- Butsuden and Karamon - Buddha Hall and Chinese Gate respectively. The image inside Butsuden represents Kshitigarbha Bodhisattva, the guardian of children and children who died before their parents
- Hatto - Dharma Hall
- Hojo - Main Hall
- Garden
- Hanso-bo - Protecting shrine of Kencho-ji
- Monastery
Kencho-ji is the oldest Zen training monastery in Japan, and was completed in 1253 - the 5th year of the Kench Era, hence it's name.
Anyway, here are some photos from the main part of the temple grounds.
After wandering around the main part of the temple grounds, I headed up hill to Hanso-bo 半僧坊. The route is simple enough - just follow the road and then take the stairs. The steps nearly killed me, but the view at the top is definitely worth it (even on a cloudy day like today). If you are tired of people, then Hanso-bo is definitely worth a look. It's quiet and has a very different feel to the rest of the complex.
I also went to the Shojoken Observatory 勝上嶽展望台(basically just a small viewing platform up more horribly steep steps), and the view was even better.
If you're fit enough (and brave enough), I highly recommend going to the top. From there, you can continue on the hiking course as well.
On the way back down through the temple, I was lucky enough to be in time to watch the service. I've never seen anything like it before, so for me it was fascinating. It lasted for maybe 15 minutes in total, and involved a procession from the Hojo to Hatto for chanting, and then out again to go through the Sanmon. It was a really good experience, and I wish I knew more about it. I shall do some research!
Before heading home, I stopped in at a local sweets shop next to the station. I'd really enjoyed the one I'd had earlier, so I thought I'd treat myself. The ones I bought are two soft wafers sandwiching different jams. The red bean one is the best! The packaging was really pretty too, and it didn't cost me a vast amount.
So that's it. A pretty successful day out, I think.
I'm really starting to wish that I didn't have to go back to England. I feel so much happier here.
What a wonderful trip. You've been to some lovely places! It is -always- worth it to climb to the top for the view.
ReplyDeleteI really understand your wish to stay in Japan. There's something so special and peaceful about the country... I'm often 'homesick' about it, too.